Miniature Scotland

The Isle of Arran is often referred to as miniature version of Scotland. There are highlands, lowlands, farming areas, hunting areas, fishing ports, whisky distilleries and, of course, golf courses. The island has a population just over 5,000 people and covers approximately 430 sq km. This means that there are approximately 11 people per square km. There are 7 golf courses, which is a very decent return given that much of the island is taken over by mountain ranges and deep valleys filled with heather. This gives you one course for approximately every 715 people. By comparison, Surrey has 128 courses across a population of nearly 1.2m (so, 1 course per 9,300 people).

Not only are there the courses the island itself, but the location of the island makes for very interesting reading if you are a golf fan. Ferries bring you to the island from either Ardrossan on the Ayrshire coast or Claonaig on the Kintyre. Ardrossan is about an hour south of Glasgow. Continue down the coast line and you drive through Gailes, Prestwick, Troon and Turnberry (to name but a few). On the other side, Claonaig is a mere 50 minute drive from Machrihanish.

So, you can see how this might lend itself to a golf trip. Yes, I am already planning a proper one!

For this trip was not primarily for golf on Arran, albeit I have been lucky enough to have both the time and the weather to play 3 of the courses on the island. I have three more days to try and fit in the remaining four …

Golf on Arran

For someone who had played 129 different courses across the world, it is perhaps surprising that none of these were in Scotland. I had, of course, heard a lot about golf in Scotland. Both the well-known courses that have hosted major professional tournaments, and the unheralded courses in the middle of nowhere that have an honesty box. Again, Arran has a good combination – from the little known Machrie and Corrie with their tea-rooms, to the mythical Shiskine.

I will provide some more detailed insight and (numerous) photos of the courses I have played in future articles. For now, it is enough to summarise my experiences as being both breathtaking and fun. It has also been very refreshing to play some courses which are not world-renowned. The reminder that you do not need to spend hundreds of pounds on a round to enjoy the game is also welcome!

First time in Scotland

The trip to Machrie Bay was totally unplanned. We had had a lazy morning and then headed out to try out a walk. We had arrived on the island the day before and did not really know what to expect from the walk. This one started just off the road between Sannox and Lochranza, and was supposed to be quite gentle. The route takes you along the North Sannox Burn, through a small woodland and up towards the Glenn Sannox ridge. The early afternoon sunlight gave everything a warm colour and the whole experience was idyllic. There are a number of attractive waterfalls and you are constantly surrounded by swathes of purple heather.

Having reached the top, we retraced our steps and headed back to the car. We decided to explore a bit more of the island and headed round to Lochranza. A brief stop to inspect the castle and then back in the car. There is a road that runs around Arran which is almost always along the coastline. The west side of the island affords some incredible views across the Kilbrannan Sound to Kintyre.

Machrie Bay Golf Club

It is about 25 minutes to drive from Lochranza to Machrie. We pulled up at the Machrie Bay Tea Room just after 6pm. It was closed, but I thought I would jump out and explore. The course starts just behind the tee room and its 9 holes play inland and then back to the sea. The approach to the 9th green is played across the road. I took a couple of photos and ran back to the car. At this point, I was offered the opportunity to play … I did not need to be asked twice.

I followed the instructions on the tee box: completed the tee sheet and left £20 in the honesty box. There was no one else around as I teed off for the first time on Scottish soil. The course is by no means the finest that I have played, but in the moment I could have been anywhere. The sun was shining and the views were incredible. For a small course in a relatively remote area, it was in great condition. The fairways were soft and springy and the greens were remarkably well-kept.

Signature Holes

The first two holes and the 9th hole are particularly memorable. The first – a short par 4, plays parallel to the shore with a slight left to right dog-leg. The tiny looking green is sunk into a little hollow just off the fairway, with the road just to the right making the approach quite precarious. The second is a blind par 3 that you play over a mound covered in heather. The 9th is named “Road Hole” and is precisely that. Another short par 4 that plays straight down to the shore. The approach is laid up around 170 yards to give you a full shot into the green. The green is carefully positioned between the road and the beach.

Lamlash Golf Club

The course at Lamlash adjoins the main road and it was clear from driving past that there would be more good views on offer. The course has been fashioned on the side of a hill that leads down to the shore. There are therefore a great array of elevation changes and different views. The front nine takes you through the forrest with shots framed by heather and gorse. The back nine plays down towards the harbour and has unrivalled views of Holy Isle. There are a number of blind tee shots and as a result some pretty tricky holes.

The holes that stood out were the 8th and the 15th. Both are relatively short par 4s, but require strong tee shots to carry the hazards. For the 8th, the tee box is set right back in the trees and so you play out over the heather and bracken. As you approach the crest of the hill you get a fantastic view out across the course with Holy Isle in the distance. The 15th has a blind tee shot up and over the road and through a gap in the trees and gorse. Consequently, it looks like you are sending your tee shot out to Holy Isle!

The opening and closing holes are also great fun. The 18th in particular coming back to a raised green in front of the clubhouse. This is a proper golf club and clearly a social centre in the village.

Shiskine Golf and Tennis Club

I’m not quite sure where to start with Shiskine. This place is magical. It is set on a promontory running along the beach to a headland framed by a huge rock. In another setting, you would play out to and then around the rock. Perhaps that is where the additional 6 holes would be situated? Shiskine is famous for being a 12 hole course as well as for its quirky holes and stunning views. Consequently, it is the best known course to play golf on Arran.

Its location means that there are incredible views from every hole. The holes themselves are proper golf holes and whilst there are a few which may appear quirky, they would not be out of place in any of the top links courses that also have idiosyncratic holes. The stretch from 4-7 is particular memorable, as you play from the high point on the course down to the edge of the promontory. From there you head along the beach and turn back towards the clubhouse. The 6th and 7th play consecutively with the beach on your right. The 7th is a totally blind par 3 that plays over a huge sand dune.

Attention to detail

The most impressive element of this course, however, is its conditioning. The fairways, greens and bunkers were pristine. It had been noticeable that the greens at Machrie and Lamlash were slightly furry and a bit rough in places. Here the greens would not have been out of place at any of the Top 100 courses I have played recently.